Review from the Stack: Good to the Grain

Like the ugly ducking that doesn't realize it's grown up to become a swan, Good to the Grain is a modestly gorgeous cookbook. Kim Boyce writes in a straightforward, yet reverent way about the pleasures of baking with whole-grain flours. Did you just read that phrase– whole-grain– and totally check out? Don't be fooled. These recipes have enough butter and sugar to fuel a church bake sale at Christmas time. This book is not for the faint of fat.  Good to the Grain revives classic recipes, showing how different grains can bring a new world of flavor and texture to the cookies you've been baking for years (among many other things).

A professional pastry chef who left the restaurant world to raise her children, Boyce is well-aware of the limitations of home kitchens. She clearly has respect for everyday baking, but that doesn't stop her from indulging her curiosity as she plays with uncommon ingredients. The book features 12 different grains, with a chapter devoted to each, plus a chapter on jams and compotes.

The photos definitely matched the tone of the book––somehow both stunning and understated. Photographic attention is paid to lovely details, such as a glistening slice of peach semi-buried in a mound of muffin batter, highlighting the simple beauty of the ingredients in each recipe.

Details:
Good to the Grain: Baking with Whole-Grain Flours by Kim Boyce
Published by Stewart, Tabori & Chang in 2010
Hardcover; 207 pages
Book includes: Detailed head notes, serving sizes, and full color photographs throughout.

Recipe #1: Chocolate Chip Cookies

Molly beat me to the punch in raving about these cookies, but why not rave some more? Made with whole-wheat flour, the flavor of Boyce's cookies is more complex than a conventional chocolate chip cookie. Every comforting element you expect is there––the cookie is rich, buttery, and chocolate-laden with a perfectly crisp exterior that gives way to a chewy, soft interior–– but wonder upon wonders, you can taste more than just sugar! These cookies are slightly nutty (the only clue for the secret whole-wheat ingredient) with a good balance of salty and sweet. This is the kind of cookie you should bake on a Saturday afternoon, just to revel in the joy of recreational baking. And then, after your entire house is filled with the sweet, heady scent of rising cookie dough, you can eat a big stack of them warm from the oven. Guilt-free. Because, you know, they're made with whole-wheat.

Recipe #2: Ginger Peach Muffins

These are some sassy muffins. I loved all the different uses of ginger in this recipe––fresh ginger grated and mixed into the batter; sauteed with some peaches; and candied ginger chopped and mixed in for an extra kick. The recipe calls for the cooked peaches to be laid atop the muffin batter, making for a very elegant presentation––and one satisfying chunk of fruit when you take your first bite. I had one problem with the recipe, though. The instructions advise you to butter a muffin tin and go paperless, assuring that you'll be able to easily twist out the muffins after they've cooked.  I swear, even though it took every ounce of willpower I possess, I waited until the muffins had cooled before twisting them out of the tin. Despite my care, I ended up with only three intact muffins out of twelve. So, I think it's best to use muffin cups. This minor gripe aside, my disheveled muffins were pretty spectacular. I ate every crumb.  Made with oat flour, the texture is slightly crumbly and soft. The ginger gives a spicy current that contrasts well against the syrupy sweet peaches. These muffins beg to be made during mid-summer when peaches are lusciously ripe. Eat them in your pajamas, with a cup of Earl Grey tea.

For the person who loves baking, this cookbook would make a great addition to a collection. There are wonderful everyday recipes––muffins, cookies, waffles and breads. There are also plenty of breakfast treats and afternoon snacks to satisfy little children (the fact that Boyce's daughters are the lucky beneficiaries of her baking becomes pretty clear). As I mentioned, although this book experiments with whole-grains, it is by no means a health food cookbook. Butter and sugar abound! At times, the use of several different grains in one recipe can be a bit excessive. If you are not a frequent baker, it may not be practical to keep so many unusual grains on hand, as many of them spoil after a short amount of time. However, for the ardent baker who's in the mood for something unusual, yet not overly difficult, I can't think of a better book. Not only is the book itself lovely to behold, the recipes are inventive, accessible, and completely satisfying.

RATING: 8
(on a scale of 10)